95: John
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28mm: ISO 400: f7.1 1/6th sec, (Tripod)
Sigma 28 f1.8
John: Photographer, Mountaineer and Pheonix Centre Founder
94: George
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50mm: ISO 400: f2 1/250th sec, (Handheld)
Canon 50 f1.4
George: Photographer, Traveller and Military Man
93: Wendy
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12mm: ISO 800: f11 1/100th sec, (External flash)
Sigma 10-20 f4-5.6
Wendy: One Day Chief Constable, Beach Lover and Devoted Devourer of the Tartan Literati
92: Sheryl
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28mm: ISO 400: f3.2 1/20th sec, (Tripod and remote flash)
Sigma 28 f1.8
Sheryl: Accountant, Bookworm and Future “Grand Designer”
You can buy the shelves at Strachan Antiques and I have it on the best authority that Sheryl is currently reading Christopher Brookmyre.
91: Lisa
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28mm: ISO 400: f2.8 1/5th sec, (External flash)
Sigma 28 f1.8
Lisa: Future Florentian, Wine Aficionado and Photographer to be.
A little vignetting added in Lightroom finishes the antique feel.
Sharing your plan and Making sense of flash in darkness.
People Stuff:
As I have taken more portraits I have started to evolve some habits. Whether this is a good or a bad thing is open of course to debate. One habit is that once I have identified a location that works well or that my subject wants to use, I go through a similar procedure.
1. I take a couple of positioning pictures with little regard to finessing of poses or facial expressions. These shots are just to check position and general composition and often to decide on my desired “depth of field” to include more or less background detail. I will usually share these decisions with my subject to involve them.
2. I will then do some pictures, for real and try to get something good but encouraging the subject to try a few different expressions, positions, direction of looking etc. Sometimes I will use one of these, but just as often I would then ask my subject to relax and look over these to get feedback for both of us on what is working well and what isn’t so good. I often allow my subjects to delete any they strongly dislike at this stage to help them feel secure and in control of the session.
3. Finally after discussion we will try to repeat the subjects’ favourite result from stage 2, and during this stage I will be fine tuning the lighting or flash positioning. I tend not to labour this stage, but I do find that the best results often happen at this point as both my subject and I are focussing in on what we think is best.
So my point about working with people, is whenever you get to the stage of trying a promising location, it is really important to share this rough plan with them so that they don’t feel uptight about the direction the session is going. Share it all up-front and they will participate more intelligently and effectively. No one wants to be wondering what their photographer is thinking.
Techie Stuff:
This is just a small point, but quite an important one about using dedicated (Through The Lens metered flash, ETTL). When you are taking photographs and you are in the habit of using aperture priority to set the depth of field required, it can confuse you a little bit when you use flash to cope with low light situations. Although ETTL flash, (in which the camera fires a preflash and meters it before setting the brightness for the real exposure a fraction of a second later), will work, I never get good sharp results this way. If the light is low, then set your camera to Shutter priority and set a speed that is within your camera’s flash-synchronisation speed. Typically 1/125th or 1/250th of a second. If the flash is your primary light source rather than a fill in or corrective light this is the only way to avoid a long exposure that will still soften your image. A tripod might help, but your subject probably won’t be still enough for real sharpness. So 1/125th typically would give a nice sharp image, although it may use a larger aperture than you would have chosen.
This is where Manual mode is probably the best way to go. If you dictate the shutter speed and aperure you would like within reason, and providing you are using an ETTL type flash system, then the system will just kick out more light to make it happen. So in summary:
If you are doing flash portraits in dark conditions:
Use “shutter” priority not aperture priority.
Use “manual” mode to control shutter speed and get the aperture you need. This will only work within reason - f22 is unlikely to work, the flash can’t put out levels of light like the sun can! In practice I would say a couple of stops smaller aperture is as much as it will manage before the light fall of is a problem; in portraiture however the difference between f1.8 and say f3.5 is important.
So in summary, don’t fall into the trap of assuming that the mode that works brillianly for 95% of your portraiture, Aperture priority, will work with flash when the setting is really dark and the flash becomes your primary source; it wont. Use shutter priority mode or even better, use manual mode.
90: Sarah-Jane
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28mm: ISO 400: f2.5 1/30th sec, (External flash)
Sigma 28 f1.8
Sarah-Jane: Future Yummy-Mummy, Total Traveller and Lover of Millinery
Special thanks are due to the Museum with its easy policy on photographs. It’s a great place, my favourite museum in Glasgow by far.
89: Laura
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50mm: ISO 100: f7.1 1/60th sec, (Handheld)
Canon 50 f1.4
Laura: Cumbernauldian, Marketeer and Baker Extraordinaire
88: Graeme
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50mm: ISO 200: f2.2 1/125th sec, (Handheld)
Canon 50 f1.4
Graeme: Cumbernauldian, Music Technologist and Psychedelic Artist
87: Jaclyn
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28mm: ISO 100: f3.5 1/125th sec, (Handheld)
Sigma 28 f1.8
Jaclyn: Algebraist, Equestrian Girl and Shopaholic
About the Project
After each subject is photographed they then choose the next person. I am using the project as a way to learn about and reflect on portraiture.












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